Sometimes there's a movie you see that really surprises you. Recently, I headed down to the Village East theatre in lower Manhattan with a famous big wave surfer to see "Maya And The Wave," not expecting too much.
Yeah, it’s about a surfer, the Brazilian Maya Gabeira, who spent much of her life in search of that mythical giant wave. But, let's face it, there have been so many such stories over the course of surfing history, most resulting in disappointment, or worse.
But Gabeira's journey is unique, one of both fighting the male-dominated, chauvinistic world of big wave surfing, and also of overcoming debilitating injuries. In 2013, she nearly drown, shattered her fibula and underwent three spinal surgeries to put her back together.
After years of doubt and painful rehab, a resilient Gabeira came back in 2018 to, indeed, catch that big wave, estimated at 68 feet. Then, in 2020, she upped it to 73.5 feet, considered the biggest wave ridden by anyone that year, and a new women’s record. Both rides occurred in Nazare, Portugal, where the planet's largest waves break routinely during the winter season, October-March.
Gabeira has also been featured in the Emmy Award-winning HBO series, “The 100 Foot Wave," along with another epic big wave female surfer, Justine Dupont, and a slew of accomplished men.
We recently caught up with Stephanie Johnes, director and producer of "Maya And The Wave," to gain insight on how and why she spent 10 years making the Gabeira documentary, initially financing it herself. Following are edited excerpts from a longer phone conversation.
Jim Clash: You spent an entire decade following Maya while she progressed as a big wave surfer. Do you think the making of your movie had anything to do with the feel-good outcome?
Stephanie Johnes: It was a huge gamble. I believed in Maya, and understood that the belief was a small factor in her succeeding. There is an interesting thing that happens when you film someone, tell their story. It emboldens them. I realized that I had a role in her life, and in the outcome of her success - and that would inspire all women. Maya's was a glorious achievement, like a woman landing on the moon.
Clash: Have you had trouble distributing your documentary because of say, male chauvinism in the surfing world?
Johnes: Absolutely. I don't think that's a secret. It's really a crazy time. We've proven without a shadow of a doubt that women belong. Look at the Women's World Cup this year. It took off. Look at the draw that women's sports has.
Unfortunately, it's still a conventional society, and people in the towers of power are having a hard time accepting [the role of women]. Everyone who watches this film is like, "Oh my God, that's an incredible movie. Why is it not widely available?" I think maybe it's hard for distributors to accept that women do want to see this kind of movie, and desperately. We won a big award in Toronto. I mean, what do I have to do for them to get over their biases?
Clash: I guess that sentiment is part of the bigger picture, maybe politics, as well?
Johnes: We live in a patriarchal society. Hopefully things will change. For example, we are one of the few countries in the world that has not been able to elect a female leader. We think we are a progressive nation, but we are not. The powers that be are indicative of that.
Clash: In the film, there was quite a bit of resistance to embrace Maya's 2020 success within the surfing community.
Johnes: There was so much hate on the Internet. We only put a taste of it in this film. We did not want to beat viewers with all of that. [Big wave surfer] Laird Hamilton was on CNN, live television, with those views. Unfortunately for him, he was the guy caught on camera with incredibly backwards comments. People would hesitate to treat her that way now, I think, that she's so accomplished. But it's not like we were manufacturing controversy for this movie.
Clash: I'm actually surprised that there are so many disrespectful male surfers. The ones I've met are actually quite progressive in that respect.
Johnes: I think it was Maya's skill and perseverance that threatened some guys' own sense of masculinity. If a pretty girl can surf a 70-foot wave, it must not be the most macho thing in the world. Some of them are really counting on that [activity] to prove their manhood, how tough they are.
Clash: There was a small part in the movie that showed where Maya's long-time mentor/surf partner, Carlos Burle, abandoned her. What was that all about - her big injury, the fact that she was getting so good that she threatened him? What?
Johnes: I think it was her injury. She was really down and out, and nobody believed in her [at that point]. I think also he did not.
Clash: If Maya offered you a ride on her jet ski at Nazare on a big-wave day, would you take it?
Johnes: Yes, of course. She trusted me with her life for 10 years, and I would trust her with mine.
[Editor’s Note: “Maya And The Wave” is currently premiering in select cities around the U.S. Check the film’s website for times and places.]
ForbesMaya Gabeira, Big Wave Surfer, On Pain, Chauvinism, TriumphBy Jim Clash
ForbesRough Nazare Surf Rocks, Rolls And Tosses Reporter Into Giant WavesBy Jim Clash